The Run In

 As always job nearly done and a sence of fulfillment but also of sadness that it's nearly over - I love touring. 

In for breakfast I get a rollocking for being late, the Captain is also still less than happy about me taking him for an appertife at a local Bar last night.' Why when we are in the nicest Hotel in the Town do we have to go down a hardware shop and watch old boys watching the television? ' he enquires. We debate the process of people watching and exploring other cultures but agree to differ. We are in fine spirit and although facing a good wind on our last peddle we are both relaxed and under no pressure as we have knocked some extra out the last few days. imagine 90 today The Captain asks? 'I can't imagine I reply' With that we both twiddle our way to Lisboa both silently self satisfied with our decision making. Down Town wasn't pretty, lots of industry and lots of lesser fortunate people. I feel both lucky and humbled ( if that makes sence?) 10 miles out my comrade does it on me again and we are plagued by another puncture. 'I'll blow it up but I'm not getting my hands dirty' Deal replies the disgruntled Captain. Off we go again and ask two very well equipped locals where The Arco da Augusta is? Follow us they say and fearful we would not keep up bagged up we race through Lisbon with them in Club ride fashion. A fantastic run in. Firing on all four and expecting the girls to be waiting for us in subservient fashion ( it was a big ask) we arrive in anninomity as they are shopping - we find out later. We have a cup of coffee and sit like a couple of saddos waiting for them to finish spending. Without discussion we are inwardly acceptant this is the nature of the female. We enjoy a lunch together and return to the digs which have been sourced by the girls - they are tops. The Captain is paticularly happy because another elevated statue of Jesus is keeping a watchful eye on his appartment from across the Bay. Anyway job done and box ticked - it's another great City and another great trip. Again met some great folk enjoyed good times and adversity but got here and that's what it's about - The adventure. We will be on the open top bus tommorrow and fly home Tuesday. As always thanks to the Girls for   Your support. Over and out xxx

Drowned Rats to Benavente

On our penultimate day we are aware of a less than satisfactory weather expectation. Our digs were tops last night even though it was a one horse town and we were the only 'couple' in the Hotel. The Captian and I have had many romantic meals over the last week and this was no different. Take the trouble to look at Google translation of our menu attached - spoilt for choice? I am understanding now why we don't see many Portuguese  in the UK - don't think that could afford it. A bottle of top beer works out at 60p in a bar and it seems to us that everything is for next to nought. Today our starting fortunes change - at the lowest altitude since Plymouth / Santander there is only one direction and we climb for 1400 ft over about 4 / 5 miles but at this stage in ride it's not a chore any more. We stop at 42 miles just after the rain starts hoping for a weather window but no such luck. It then rains and rains - and rains. on route we see some Pilgrims banding a cross and I ask the Captain if he'd ever thought of doing one with Lorraine - I suggest that he could go in front waving the cross and Lorraine could tow the kids behind in a little trotting buggy. I am pleased with my suggestion and The Captain is also amused at the concept. Total drivel but it keeps the British Spirit high. Initially we had planned a 90 mile tomorrow to meet our loved ones (do you like that girls?) but we have been nibbling away at the numbers all week to cut this down. I wish I could report great views etc etc but I can't because it was a day when really you just get stuck in and rise above the weather and think about the great Btitish Spirit and all that nonsense. It's a strange phenomina but we were getting a buzz out of being wet. We knew that every mile we cracked was one less for tomorrow. As always the penultimate day is a strange one as you are looking forward to destination end and job done but there is a sence of disappointment that something you have trained for ,planned is coming to an end. We stop after 72 miles at around 2pm and eat our first bite - that's not good I know? There we understandably make the Bar Owner fed up as we drip road kill contaminated water over everyone and everything. Maps out we plan our stop but nothing is working it's all to close apart from one at another 30 miles. We have 20 in our head and although only another 10 miles it feels signicant as its raining harder and the wind has picked up. We  discuss and go for it making our end today at 103 miles. At 99.5 miles the Captain has a puncture - we work together in terrential rain to fix - The Captain offers me plastic gloves (!the sort the doctor wears when he's doing a prostrate check up) he's very organised on that front. I suggest though that bearing in mind the number of mechanical failures he endures he needs to be orginised. We are now 31 miles from Lisboa and have treated ourselves to nice stay tonight - very nice but the price of a grotty Travel Lodge. Have no pics today apart from destination end and stops - to wet to get the camera out. Touch base tommorrow from Lisboa with the Wenches xx

Hassle Free to Vila Velha de Rodeo

We leave Gaurda 7.30 this morning. As I suggested last night we were gifted with an extra hour due to the Portugal Spain time difference meaning it was light. At 1000 m it was cold and we rugged up for the decent. Captain Parker was raring to go still gloating over his new 35 Euro wheel. The downhill was cold but exhilarating  and we dropped some 1800 feet over 3 miles. A great way to begin the Day.  I am still whingeing about my Achilles, I am accused of being both  a hypochondriac and a 'pussy'and I agree this may well be the case. We ride some 10 miles and stop in a little village to remove the rugs and enjoy a tea and coffee. It is an amazing day and as I said yesterday I am in awe of this Country. It was indeed a fantastic day for cycling. We cross a mountain pass via Alcantara heading for Castelo Branco in bright sunshine which was our planned stop on the daily splits at 62 miles. We rode separately I was enjoying the rhythm of the climb which ranged from 4 to 8% over about 5 miles. The road is creatively engineered and almost feels like it grew there - something that we don't seem to be good at in our own country. It's consistent and the snatch backs ensure fluency. Minispeakers resonating to the late JJ Cale and the new playlist of my resident touring DJ  - Judge Adam Prout I am in my element. The Captain would be less than happy with it.  We pass Vines loaded with grapes in the hedgerows growing just like blackberries in our own country. Pine nuts falling, aqricultue is back in time but it's fantastic. I am in many ways jealous to see these people living a simple existence apparently uninterested in the trappings of life that we have been programmed to believe are so important. ( on one again I know but that's how it gets me) We arrive in Castelo Branco and have racked 62 miles to arrive spot on 1pm We decide to have lunch and then push on another 20 miles or so to current position to ensure a smaller day on Sunday. The Captain is less than happy when I use Google translator to order him an omelette - it comes out as Sausage Egg and Chips. The Town we are in at the moment is strange it's a one horse town and The Captain remarks 'Theyve shot the horse' - we grab accomodation in the only Hotel that seemed available and are alone here. The Captain is beside himself when we fall across the local fire station and he insists on a piccy. As he inspects the Watch organisation He scowls' These doors could do with a paint' 83 miles today and as always sitting into the ride nicely now and it's over in two days!  Dont know where we will be tomorrow. Just been informed heavy rain on the horizon so could be anywhere from here to Lisboa - we plan to just do all we can to be with the Girls as early as possible on Sunday. They fly in to Lisbon tomorrow and have a night on their own -  Danger? Over and out The Tourists. X

Arrive Against the Odds Gaurda

All in all a fantastic day but peppered with    a few glitches. Leaving Palencia in darkness this morning at 7.30 we are rugged up and a ground frost is apparent. Good progress out of the city and onward down the National 620 - again we have the road to ourselves and I sence the Captain, like I. is quietly chuffed with our progress as we head for Portugal with a long awaited northerly on our tails. After 9 miles we stop at a early opening restaurant to enjoy a coffee ( tea for the Captain who is partial to his early morning brew up) and a cousant. We are confused as we eat next to an electricity worker getting stuck into a large Brandy at 8.15 - The Captain gives him the benifit of the doubt ' He may have been on the nigh shift?' However we debate whether that makes it acceptable and decide probably not? Onward again and riding a distance apart again The Captain bags a beautiful skinning knife on the side of the road. ' That could have been a disgaurded murder weapon' I announce - ' if it was they cleaned it up well' was the reply. I am more than use now to this matter of fact analysis. 

Another 3 miles down the road and potential disaster - another spoke snaps (no 2 after Bridgewater)- I take a bag on to my one bike ( selfless) and after lots of enquiries with the aid of commuting mountain bikers - cafe owners - agricultural mechanics - passing French Touring Cyclist we finally find a bike shop in a town some 15 k up the road. Then away we go again. We are pleased that dispite all the hassle we have still knocked out 60 miles before 12.30. Five miles from Portugal border another spoke goes - so Bag swap again and we have no other choice but to wabble on to Gaurda praying that the bespoke wheel will hold out ( I have one thing to say on this matter and that's it -over!  sometimes frugality is false economy - eh Captain!) it's all however part of the adventure. We arrive in Gaurda tonight to find out it's the highest city in Portugal at 1000 metres and it felt like it. Crossing the border earlier was Fabulous ( I compared it with coming into Cheltenham from Gloucester but point out that's only my opinion because The Captain thinks Gloucester is great)  The Spanish are a hard faced race and although I understand it's not malicious never the less they can be intimidating. Already I have felt warmth from the Portugese phsicy - helpful, open and above all friendly. Leaving the plains of Northern Spain to be greeted by Olive Tree rich, green,fertile defined landscape was itself an uplifting experience. It's good to be here. beginning  with a romantic lunch sat on the top end of a gorge pass.The Captain is also very pleased to be here but mainly because his new wheel only cost 35 euros. 'It was worth the wait' he pontificates. As we sit discussing our day feeling Cheshire Cat smile happy at our achievements in the face of adversity a call from my eldest son Ben for a catch up throws some confusion on time. Unknown to both of us we find out Portugal are in the same time as England. That means we get an hours lie in tomorrow? 105 miles today and 5500 climbing ft mostly in the last 25 miles. We are playing it by ear tomorrow - lots of options but pushing to ensure we don't have massive day on Sunday for the Lisbon run in - touch base tommorrow x

What a Difference a Day Makes to Salamanca

We agreed an 8am start and as usual I can hear the tutting as I prepare for my day. It always takes me longer to get ready and The Captain unwillingly endures this process. It is still dark and with all lights blaring we are off. The most difficult part of navigating is getting out of the city and today proved no different. The biggest mistake we make is to ask advice assuming it's credible – it's always shite! After 5 miles we find ourselves close to where we started. Unflustered we leave the city and head for The Plateau. We are in fine spirits the sky is blue and wind turbines are all shutdown. The slight breeze we can feel is benefiting us on our right shoulders. As we cross the plateaux at still some 2800 ft the views are fantastic. We fuel on the cake that we bought last night anticipating our really start. I have one problem - a touch of the gout in my achilles. ( Everywhere you go in Spain you get complimentary peanuts and they are the Catylist) Captain Parker finds it amusing -  I assure him that the only people who laugh about gout are the ones who haven't had it. Anti-inflammatories are an international phenomena and the 600 tablet hits that are available in Spain soon ease my predicament. We push on and the memories of yesterday's awful weather soon subside. We are in good form and agree that our 80 mile without a lunch stop today is a record. At this point we gorge  on supermarket cheeses and meats leaving us a 35 mile run into Salamanca. Again the run in is on what seemed to be a redundant N road. The N620 was void of traffic and we have this huge highway all to ourselves it was fantastic. More than strange to be riding up the centre of such a big road and have it all to yourself. We rode a good distance apart today partly because I wanted to play some tunes (And the Captain only likes ELO) and partly because the cycling was that good it's important to personalise it. The last 20 miles were cracked in just over the hour and we finish up at destination end 114 miles. Captain Parker is particularly pleased to be at Salamanca. 'The Coldstreams kicked ass here in 1812' he declares with all his military pride. I check this out on Wikipedia and indeed they did - in fact a field day! It's a bustling city and appears to be incredibly wealthy. Again booking.com finds us accommodation 170 yards from where we sit and have a beer. How good is that? We dive into the nearest eating house to the digs and with lids heavy - fill up and dive straight back out to be in bed by 9:10-boring bastards! Into Portugal tomorrow all being well and have agreed on 730 sharp leave. Over and out  -  Los ciclistas muy cansados - That means we be knackered. 

Head Down And Rugged Up To Palencia.

Tonight we are in Palencia - I am trying my best to come up with something exciting that it's known for but it seems its greatest achievement is to produce the fourth highest statue of Jesus in the world. Captain Parker I know will not be happy until he has cycled to and bagged the top three. 

Today wasn't fun. We left the digs this morning and for 85 miles we have been head on into a 25 mile an hour wind. The Peacos Mountain range is not pretty and for the first three hours of cycling it chucked rain at us. It was bleak the visibility low and so were the tourists. We parked up some 20 miles in and stopped  for refuge like drowned rats. I was aware that we were ultra wet and this was confirmed by the locals who sat quietly giggling. 'Why would you go out on a bike in that weather' I translated. Even if I could speak Spanish I wouldn't have been able to give an explanation.

We push on another 30 miles and stop for some food at what we decided would be our last stop. From then we ride heads down to Palencia. The wind was unbelievable and spent the journey plodding in anticipation of the rare trees and banks that were available to offer respite to our predicament. The 200+ wind turbines we counted were a clue and we both agree not there forearm balmy conditions. Our passage On the N611 was a strange one - it tracked the motorway and was obviously the old road nobody uses anymore. It was weird to be on such a big road and travel such a distance and probably only be passed by around 50 vehicles for the whole day. Everybody used the big road and the derelict fuel stations and closed shops that we passed were less than lifting. We eventually arrived at end destination - we sit with a beer and the Sun Shines on us in the square we have found next to the Cathedral. We check up on tomorrow's weather and it looks better with 105 miles to crack tomorrow we are relieved. Our digs tonight are fantastic courtesy of booking.com probably the best app I have ever downloaded. You can sit having a beer and decide where you are staying rather than run round the city like a headless chicken which we have done in past lives. We treat ourselves tonight to fish soup and a big fat steak. I am impressed with the captains command of the language he assigns the fish soup with a strange waving of his right hand in a charrards  type gesture and orders his steak with a moo. It wasn't budding linguist stuff but it certainly was very effective. The meal was fantastic and the Spanish lady who served us was as good as a Mum. We were under the wing and spoilt. Tomorrow we hope to make Salamanca it will be weather dependent so fingers crossed touch base from there tomorrow. Beat up like a bust up sofas but not broken xx Los Dos Ciclastis 

Santander - Reionsa - Uphill !

 We leave the Ferry this afternoon and my Bike is tied up to a Brompton   ( those fold up things that city type people commute to their offices with) I am less than happy as I look for scratches on my own treader. Four adolescents appear to claim the Brompton together with 3 other cycles that I wouldn't risk going up the shop with. They declare their intent to ride to San Sabastion on them and I forgive them. What's the road like they ask the Captain ' is it hilly?' 'Flat as a pancake ' replies the Captain. As we exit Santander we giggle reminiscing our own struggle up the same trek last year. 

The air smells different and the walk from the ferry to some 78 degrees is like walking out of an air conditioned shop on a rare sunny day in our Homeland. It felt good. We make progress out of Santander in new WCC kit ( thanks Jenny we love it ) The whole attitude to the cyclist is different - and with our GB adverts on full display we receive encouragement, thumbs up, pleasant pap ups from car horns and a mutual love for The Ciclo.  Stopping for some food after 30 miles (ish) the backdrop is mountainous. The road that followed was apart from the wind a treat. It varied from anything 4 - 12% but was consistent. Riding side by side in the slow lane for the duration ( as neither of us would have been happy about the other suggesting that we had benifitted each other's accents in any way - a man thing)  No big up I promise but the wind was horrendous and I think we had the ass end of last nights sea storm. I knew we were struggling as we were riding like a bust up television - vision but no sound. The Resort we find ourselves at could be riviled by a Scottish Ski Resort and on that basis you will understand its shite but never the less we are here. We have to make a phone call to book in to our what looked like closed Hotel and a lovely Lady serves , looks at our passports gives us the keys to our rooms and the key to the main entrance and then vanishes to leave us in charge until Breakfast ( what if we were arsonists I contemplate  - but we aren't) We have a good fill in the town and the Captain is particularly intrigued why punters should be offered Tapas and not devour them. 'Nob that one'he requests. I oblige and we share 'the nob'  - it tastes good and in principle I am happy with the concept. Touch base tomorrow where hopefully we will be in Palencia wind permitting or on for another shunt if the legs agree 5400 climbing feet and 46 miles today's  feels loads more  xx